Spiking The Rails

Tools used for spiking Rail:

A- Spiking Pliers

B- Three Point Track gauge

C- Track gauge

D- Tweezers

E- Cutting plier

F- Rotary Tool Cut off Disk (or saw for cutting rail)
(Soldering Iron and Solder not shown)

Before spiking the rails, the wood ties are stained or painted and then glued to the surface of the  module. Allow enough drying time before adding a layer of ballast. The ballast is secured with diluted white glue (PVA).

The rails and tie plates are painted before spiking.

After the paint and glue has dried the rails can be spiked.

If the spikes used have a slightly larger head that isn't visually appealing,  adjust the spike's head size by removing a portion of the head with the cutting pliers.

In order to achieve an even spacing on the wood ties, the rails are held with the three point track gauges. More than one three point track gauge is helpful especially when spiking rail on a curve.

Electrical feeds can be soldered to the bottom of the rails before spiking. The position of the wire for the electrical feed is marked on the ballast and on the rail while the rail is in place. A hole for the feeder wire is drilled into the module and the wire is soldered to the bottom of the rail at the marked location.

Once the rails are positioned and the tie plates are in place using the tweezers, spiking can begin on one of the rails. Before spiking the second rail, ensure the rail spacing is correct by using the track gauge. 

The rail is in gauge when the protruding tabs (A) of the track gauge fit between the rails without binding and the rail does not slip into notch (B). (As shown by in the Orange Circle)

The rails are gauged correctly in the photo. (Red Arrow in Photo)

Spiking O scale rail is not difficult and the number of bent spikes will reduce with practice and patience.